18/08/2025 Jewellery
Jewellery passed down through families often carries personal significance, but its market value depends on a range of factors that are not always immediately apparent. Pieces that appear modest can sometimes prove to be of considerable interest once examined by a specialist.
At Bellmans Auctioneers, our Jewellery Department regularly advises on the valuation and sale of inherited, antique and vintage jewellery through auction, handling both individual items and complete collections.
Jewellery valuation involves more than assessing metal content alone. While materials are important, value is influenced by age, design, workmanship, condition, provenance and current market demand.
Inherited jewellery often spans different periods and styles, and understanding where a piece sits within its historical and commercial context is essential when advising on its suitability for auction.
Hallmarks and maker’s marks form an important part of the assessment process. These markings can indicate metal purity, place of assay and, in some cases, the workshop or maker responsible for a piece.
Marks are often discreet and may be worn with age. Their interpretation requires familiarity with historical standards and regional practices, particularly where older or foreign marks are concerned, and they are best assessed in person rather than relied upon in isolation.
Precious metals such as gold, silver and platinum are evaluated not only for purity but also for how they have been worked. The weight, density and construction of a piece can provide insight into its quality and intended longevity.
Original construction and materials are often more significant than later alterations or repairs, and these factors are considered together during valuation.
Gemstones are assessed in relation to their quality, condition and how they are set. Traditional mechanical settings, such as claws or bezels, are typical of higher-quality jewellery, while setting styles can also help indicate period.
The relationship between a stone and its mount is often revealing, particularly where stones appear to be original to the piece rather than later additions.
The standard of craftsmanship plays a central role in determining value. Hand-finished details, engraving, filigree work and carefully executed settings are all indicators of skilled workmanship.
Antique and vintage jewellery often reflects the techniques and aesthetics of its period, and these characteristics can be just as important as materials when considering desirability at auction.
Jewellery styles developed distinctly over time, and period characteristics can often help place a piece within a particular historical framework. Natural wear consistent with age may also support authenticity.
Where available, provenance — such as family history, previous ownership or old documentation — is reviewed as part of the valuation. While helpful, the absence of provenance does not prevent a piece from being suitable for auction.
Inherited and antique jewellery is best assessed as a whole rather than through individual indicators. No single feature determines value in isolation, and assumptions based on appearance alone can be misleading.
A specialist valuation allows all relevant factors to be considered together, resulting in a realistic estimate and informed advice on auction placement.
Clients are not expected to clean, test or research items in advance. Bringing jewellery in for examination is the most reliable way to understand its potential.
Valuations for inherited, antique and vintage jewellery are available at our Sussex saleroom and London office.
Whether you are considering the sale of a single piece or a wider collection, the first step is simply to bring the jewellery in for specialist advice.